

This is Paris, though, so the 63 reasonably priced bedrooms remain eminently grown-up: in L’Arrache Coeur (The Heartsnatcher) suite, named after the Boris Vian novel, there are blue-paneled walls, a forest-green sofa against a bookshelf wall (lots of Vian), and jazz LPs for the Grundig vinyl player.

But never has an outpost been so squarely aimed at locals as well as visitors. This is the 19th hotel from the Elegancia group, the brand behind smart addresses such as the Left Bank’s floral-chic Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles and the sultry black Hotel Snob in Les Halles. On this visit, the space is buzzing with young Parisians packed onto trestle tables, ordering cheese and charcuterie plates or oysters for a euro a go from mock stalls with striped awnings. At the Opera district’s new Chouchou hotel, it’s possible to miss the entrance entirely, drawn instead into Le Marché, a food market which doubles as a venue for DJs, live music, and stand-up. Some hotels clearly set out to be places in which to gather as much as to sleep.
